Would you like Ice with that?

Jasper - Bamff - Calgary - Sydney.

Almost at the end of our trip and onto the final part of our roadtrip - one of the most stunning drives we've ever done, over the Icefield Parkway from Jasper to Bamff. Only a short drive but we planned to take the whole day.

Leaving Jasper Park Lodge our first stop was only 30 minutes away at Athabasca Falls. Not tall, but a lot of water travelling down the river and apprently one of Alberta's most powerful falls.

Just up the road was our next viewpoint, known as "Goats and Glaciers" because apparently mountain goats come to visit a salt lick by the river - however, no goats spotted (and the person whose blog informed me said they'd never seen goats here either).

We proceeded to the next famous waterfall - again not high, but masses of water and fascinaating strange eroded rock formations funnelling the water from Sunwapta Falls into a narrow gorge.

Around every corner was another snow capped mountain.

After another 50km of photo opportunities we stopped at the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre where we had lunch. And photos. We were lucky to get pictures under both sun and cloud providing some interesting contrasts. It was certainly getting chillier and there were little snow flurries.

The Lonely Planet guidebook said the next stop was a 600m walk from the carpark on a paved, gently sloping track. Unfortunately the paved track at Peyto Lake was under quite a bit of slippery snow. But we persevered and no arms or legs were broken. Next edition I think they need to add paved track available in July and August only! 

Our next stop, Bow Lake was barely even a detour from the highway, photos taken less than a metre from the car. Which was good as weather was still deteriorating. We clocked the frozen lake and returned to the heated car as it started to sleet.

Next we HAD planned to stop at Lake Louise and enjoy the view, take some photos of the chateau, and have an overpriced drink. However, it was cold, it was raining, and it cost C$38 to park. So we returned to the highway and continued to Bamff. After checking in to our hotel we checked out both the brewery and the distillery. Both pleasant but not spectacular. As a last night special I finally tried poutine as we repacked our bags ready for our flight home. It's JUST CHIPS AND GRAVY WITH SQUEAKY CHEESE. 

Another walk around the town of of Bamff the next morning where we found the best coffee of the trip and we set off for the final leg, around 90 minutes of highway driving to Calgary. It was cold and windy and we didn't have time to really explore so we had a surprisingly good lunch at an airport bar until it was time to check in for our flight home. A classic Canadian goodbye, taking the time to truly say farewell.  

Going up the country

 Morning coffee was followed by a lakeside walk. I really want to know WHAT you get for your mandatory resort fees though - we got to the boatshed to discover it was $99 to hire a canoe for an hour. Bike use - fees. Etc Etc. Seriously Fairmont, either charge a resort fee and then don't charge for your toys or don't charge it and do charge for use. But both is a bit bloody cheeky.

It was still a bit brisk (and overcast) as we set out for Lake Maligne, about a 45 minute drive into the national park with the road winding through stunning scenery even where the trees were gone - damage by both wildfire and the fir beetle which has descimated many areas. You had to be a bit cautious at the turnoff and on the less busy roads

First stop was Maligne overlook where we saw the massive fire scar and views over the Athabasca Valley.

Our drive then took us past Medicine Lake, passing bighorn sheep that just about landed on our roof as they jumped down to the road, then followed by some elk and a large moose! Medicine Lake is also known as Disappearing Lake as in Autumn it drains into sinkholes, resurfacing 16km downstream.

Disappearing Lake still filling up I think.

Maligne Lake was cold, with just a little snow falling as we walked around the lakeside, we were surprised it was still extensively iced over which probably explains why the cruise to Spirit Island hasn't opened for the season as yet. Saw plenty of birds - and heard a several wolves howling somewhere in the distance.

The view as we parked the car

 

The ice hasn't all melted yet

I was disappointed we couldn't see the glaciers, however, a ranger told us that you can only see them in midsummer when the snow has all melted.

Slow drive back to town where we enjoyed a late lunch at a Japanese restaurant and a walk around the town which is mostly restaurants and gift stores. 

I confess to taking notes to compare Australian and Canadian recovery efforts. Jasper has three different jurisdictions with roles to play - the Federal government for the National Park, the Provincial Government, and the local government. And all funding administered seperately.

Back at the resort in the late afternoon it had become warm and sunny as we relaxed on our terrace and enjoyed the antics of the ground squirrels.

Did Matt order a cocktail or an entree?

She'll be coming round the mountain.

Another very scenic but quite short drive today with only around 325 km of highway driving to achieve. NOTHING like the mountains we had to go over to Lillooet much of the route followed the rivers. 

We saw plenty of wildlife including moose, elk, deer, and bighorn sheep. Our lunch stop was at Mt Robson where we admired the view of the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies with absolutely no desire to climb it.

Various shots of Mt Robson

more mountains

Not long past lunch the clocks jumped forward an hour and we arrived at the Alberta border and the entry to Jasper National Park and proceeded to our accomodation.

Quite confronting to see the firescar from last July. Recovery efforts are still underway. Over 350 residential buildings were lost in Jasper township and over 2000 people became homeless, many are still in temporary accomodation. At Jasper Park Lodge where we are staying, part of the staff residences were destroyed so they are still not at full capacity as some team members are living in guest accomodation. Tourism is being activly promoted though as it is an important part of the economic recovery. The natural domain will take many years to recover and many parts of the park are still closed to visitors.