Tuesday 21 May 2024

Goodbye Tiger

Seems an approriate blog post title as we bid farewell to China and I was reading Richard Clapton's autobiography on the plane on the way home!

We chose not to join the optional tour on our final day and instead visited AP markets (the good fake stuff) under our own steam. I told Matt next time I visit this type of place I'm not taking him with me as he's too impatient to really enjoy the barganing! Despite that, he actaully bought several really NICE things while I just got a few t-shirts! Hmmm, where are my jade earings?

The metro in Shanghai was very easy to use and I would love to visit this part of China again. It was 18 yuan for a day pass and connections were simple. Our hotel was a bit out of the way in the financial district but we had a nice suite (welly posh with a seperate lounge and bedroom + kitchenette) and it was only a couple of minutes walk to the metro. A few more minutes walk to to a local area, but sadly no things on sticks although there was a supermarket and we did have an interesting walk around. This was probably one of the more inconvenient locations for individual evening activites.

Night

and day views

and a view of hotel from the metro!

So... what did we think overall?

Great value for money - yes, absolutely. You squeeze a lot in to a short time.

Airline being full service airline - hell no. No upgrades to premium economy were available on the way over and on the way back they were $500 (my mental limit was $300 each). Not a drop of alcohol passed our lips. I would have liked to be offered at least a wine or beer with our meal. Very limited entertainment options, thank goodness I travel with a kindle! 

The tour packed a LOT in and the days were very full. We were on the go with most days starting early and finishing late. You need to be prepared for long days, even though there isn't masses of walking it is on hard surfaces and in the sun - so wear supportive shoes and wear a hat! Take snacks for the first day or so, although you can buy some really interesting chip flavours. If you're a coffee fiend take an aeropress and ground coffee (& longlife milk if required) to preload before breaky - the coffee machines at breakfast buffets had long lines and you might miss out on amazing dumplings. If you get wheezy/have asthma make sure you take appropriate medication as the air quaility was horrible most of the time. 

The hotels were all away from the city centres, in some areas this was OK as there were still plenty of options for late night dining, in other areas (like Shanghai and Beijing) not so good.

The majority of the guides were very pushy about tips - despite the brochure saying they recommend AUD$12/person per day but it's up to you they very much considered it part of their wages and were not afraid to chase you for it and tell you how much you "owed" them. Two guides we thought were claiming way more than they were worth and way more days than we were with them. One asked for a whole day less so got a bit more from us. And of course one was "just right". You be the judge but don't be afraid to push back and say no firmly. Given that all of the Chinese etiquette guides I've read say that tipping is not customary (and in fact in one restaurant when we left a little change on the table they chased us to return it) don't be mean, but also don't be bullied. We worked out our 12 day tour was actually TEN days as day one and twelve were travel to and from Australia (we arrived about 1 am which meant getting into the hotel around 3am on day two and the guide left us at the airport in the early evening of day 11 for a departure after midnight on day 12) and paid our tips accordingly.

We did enjoy most of the optional tours. We didn't do the shows but many people did and said they enjoyed them. Probably we paid for/did more tours than we needed to but it does make it easy when someone else does the logistics (unlike the rest of the places we visited English was commonly spoken in Shanghai so it is totally the best place to skip the extras and do stuff by yourself). We also had an e-sim for internet access and live access to google translate, this made life much easier and meant family could call us on whatsap (and vice versa) without global roaming charges.

Unless you REALLY REALLY want Chinese medicine/tea/silk/etc be entertained by the sales pitch but don't buy at premium prices! Haha you may notice I didn't mention the reproduction terracotta warriors or walruses there...

Watch out for the ebikes that are silent and deadly. I have no idea what the road rules are and I suspect nor do their riders but regardless of the direction of the traffic they seem perfectly legit setting up their own counter-flow.

Hotels were generally a bit tired but all had kettles. Not all had fridges. Common areas in several hotels had microwaves.

Group size wasn't too bad (the bus was not quite full) and we travelled with a great group of people. No charging facilities for phones and cameras or loos on the buses but no legs were that long. Take tissues/loo paper as there are public toilets everywhere but they don't have paper. Practice squatting unless you're willing to wait for the single disabled/family loo in most places.

What am I doing next? Why checking out the tripadeal 2fers for the northern lights!


Shangahi hi-lights

 We started and ended the day by the river.

First up, we took a promonade along the Bund where the architecture is very European (also as seen in the opening credits of the excellent Chinese/Australian production, Miss S)




Then a brief trip to the Shanghai Museum which makes extensive use of multi-media and concentrates on modern history - 19th and 20th century with just one floor of early history. We probably should have skipped the optional 1/2 day tour we did in the afternoon and just taken our own time to look at the French and Old Chinese areas.


 

Lunch in the French Quarter was our first non-Chinese meal since leaving Sydney! Of course Matt found a brewery.




Second lunch was in Chinatown. We tried out the wibbly-wobbly soup dumplings. They are huge - and you get a straw for the soup, no trying to balance it on a spoon! Although it would have to be a very large spoon to manage it. This one was hairy crab and sweet corn. Delicious!








The next part of the tour was so boring no photos - dumped in a high end shopping street to window shop/kill time. I'm sure some people found the shopping opportunites great but the normal shops (things like uniglo etc) were dearer than at home and I'm not really in the right pay grade for Tiffany or Cartier.

Another optional tour in the evening and this one was one not to be missed, an evening river cruise to see the city lights. My tip is to go straight upstairs to the top level and pay the 50 yuan each for seating! You get a snack (water, chips, and biscuits) as well as a much better, much less crowded view. The lights were really astonishing.

It was still quite light when we borded. China has one time zone - as a result dawn is around 4am in Shanghai at this time of year! 
The views were harder to snap when you didn't pay for preferential treatment.








Although we had the opportunity prior to the cruise to eat in a restaurant where you paid according to the weight of the food you selected from the buffet we were still full of our lunches then - so post boat ride, a late night raid on the convenience store netted us a microwave meal. Not a michelin star special but also not unpleasant. Amazing range - they had a large selection from simple pot noodles/just add boiling water, sambos (very popular), and TV dinners. They also a variety of snackfoods and have beer and spirits, just no tonic water! We went for the pork and chicken which also came with rice.  Not sure where the green vegies were that were in the picture because they weren't in the box! Oh well, potato chips are vegetables too amIright?




Lingering but not for long

After leaving our peaceful hotel, Suzhou's sales stop was a silk factory. I didn't steal any silk worms to take home to our mulberry tree and I didn't buy any clothes (although I DID see some designer items I quite fancied they weren't in my budget)



A much anticipated cruise on the Suzhou Grand Canal waas next. Really interesting old buildings but again, a dying community as the lack of modern sanitation meant most young families don't want to live here. We were disappointed to hear that the locals were not allowed to use the canals as transportation, it was tourist boats only.











We wandered the markets before a visit to the Lingering Gardens, classical Chinese gardens - crowded but beautiful. Can see exactly what inspired the Chinese Gardens of Friendship in Darling Harbour! I would like to visit here again at our own pace.

the rubbish picker.





Every tourist place we have visited has sold ice creams in the shape of various things you can see. This one of a pagoda and flowers looked better than in tasted.

These beautiful girls were happy to pose for photos.



Next up, another bus ride and on to Shanghai for our last few days. Another room high up in the hotel gave us a great view. For a change we didn't have things on sticks, we ate at a local restaurant that specialised in beef noodles.










Tea Time in Hanzhou

After a night high up in the hotel we visited a tea plantation and the beautiful West Lake park in Hangzhou. The whole trip I was amazed by the amount of green space amongst the huge high rise buildings.



The village was in a beautiful location and I was sorry we didn't have time to walk around and look at the architecture.


The sales tactics showing how tea could clean your system were interesting - the sales lady gave a great pitch but we resisted buying. Sorry China, we're dedicated coffee fiends!





Lunch was in the scenic West Lake Park, sadly the boat ride on the lake was canceled due to high winds. 
Pagodas, islands, temples, and gardens.

The grass is beautiful because you're not allowed to walk on it! 

Lunchtime concert.

Worlds smallest ice cream and lunch snacks.

As the cruise was cancelled we visited the Liuhe Pagoda instead. Parts of it date back to 970CE.

A walk up a steep stairway takes you to a lovely park and lookout followed by a scenic walk back through the park to the exit near the gift shop.






We then drove to Suzhou where our hotel was beautifully landscaped around gardens and a pond and we found (surprise!) things on sticks for dinner.