Tuesday 28 November 2023

Berlin, the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine.

... and Matt has done his damndest to eat currywurst for every meal and sometimes between meals.

We stayed three nights at Limehome in Prenzlaur Allee which is a very vibey area and super easy to get to and from by public transport. Modern hotel with electronic everything. The only issue was we couldn't turn the heating low enough for comfort, I think I need to start wearing the clothes I was wearing in Singapore indoors! Nice welcome gift but Matt is sad only ONE because I got the keep-cup.

Our first day started with a pleasant but cold walk to the flea markets in Mauerpark. They weren't as busy or big as expected due to it being "the Sunday of the dead", a religious holiday. It was quite a moment when we realised the Berlin Wall ran between where we were staying and the park - a moving multimedia memorial shared vingnettes from both daily life and escape attempts.

We then continued our walk to Hackescher Markt. Shops don't open on Sunday (other than the little family run sort) but luckily this doesn't seem to apply to restaurants where Matt had the first of many Berlin Currywurst. We were seated next to an interesting Finnish couple and had an interesting conversation on pedagogy and the importance of preserving language and culture in the face of colonisation and Americanisation.




Next up was Museum Island where we sadly only had time for one museum. Four hourse at Neus Museaum was not enough and we are already planning to return in four years when the Pergamon reopens. It was already dark when we emerged for our walk to Alexanderplatz and a tram back for a picnic dinner in our room. Just a few photos of things that caught my eye.







A dramatic exit.


On our second full day in Berlin we had planned to join a food and history walking tour but unfortunately it was cancelled. We still had our booking to visit the dome at the Reichstag (we saw a FOX running across the lawn in the middle of the city while waiting to clear security) where there was an interesting exhibit on modern German politics and history before the double helix walkway. It was cold and got colder as we went up - it was also snowing!



We decided to make our own walking tour for the remaining daylight hours and Brandenburger Tor was next on the "The Best of European Scaffolds" tour.


Before walking on to the Holocaust Memorial we stopped to thaw out with kaffe und kuchen (or kaffe und currywurst for some).

Unfortunately the information centre was closed because it was Monday but the memoiral was moving, disturbing, and disorientating. Not being at all artistic usually artists statements pass me by but this installation did affect me, you feel disorientated, confused, and even scared as you walk between the stelae. Most certainly "a place of contemplation, a place of  rememberance, a place of warning". 

Human nature being what it is, next up was a lighter moment. A stop at the Berlin Mall for lunch and to spend a pfennig before visiting the first of our Christmas Markets, the first gluhwein, and another piece of the wall at Potsdamerplatz.



  

More sombre moments and reflection on man's inhumanity as we walked through the Topographie des Terrors on the way to Checkpoint Charlie (where Matt kept telling me I was going the wrong way before he realised last time he was there was pre 1989 and he was approaching from the other side. It looked bigger then, he told me).



Final stop for the day was the second gluhwein and market at Alexanderplatz.


We awoke to more snow. Despite the chilly start we are quite sure, Berlin, we will be back.


‘Berlin, the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine.’
(David Bowie)



Sunday 26 November 2023

In a league of our own - Modern Magdeburg

 Matt was keen to visit the southernmost city of the Hanseatic League, however between the 30 years war and the 2nd world war there really was NOTHING left about their trading and maritime history. It was still an interesting visit and the residents are very focused on their reinvention as a modern post-cold war city.

The day began with a walk by the cathederal (under wraps) and by the river along the Fürstenwall where the weather alternated between rain and snow flurries. We walked to the old market and enjoyed lunch in a family style restaurant before heading to the Cultural Museum which had an interesting collection.

I didn't know Gaudi had designed any German buildings ;-)

The Cathederal


 
From the museum collection



The Famous Horseman

Dollhouse was taller than I am!

Dugout canoe remains - the canoe was made from one tree - from Bohemia - impressive evidence of the long distances that were traveled on the rivers in the Middle Ages.

Late afternoon was a train ride to Berlin (yes of course it was running late!) where we are staying in a lovely hotel in Prenzlauer Allee close to the tram, shops, and parks.



Postcard Pretty Quedlinburg

 Arrived late into Quedlinburg (thanks DB for that total shit show - first train our booked seats weren't even ON the train, the second one was late meaning we missed the third and forth. But eventually were arrived in Quedlinburg. First impressions were terrible! Miscommunication with hotel meant no one was there to let us in and the brew house we had intended to have dinner at had closed early!

But, after a tasty Vietnamese meal and a really good nights sleep things were brighter and we enjoyed exploring the amazingly preserved old city with original timbered buildings. Disappointed that the castle was closed for renovations but what's a European Vacation without a shitload of scaffolding! Good thing for bank balance space is restricted because antique widow shopping was a blast.

actual view from bedroom window

I didn't buy but could have!

View from the castle


Gin and Mustard shop. Some - er...INTERESTING gins!

World Heritage Listing.


Interesting things to look at everywhere!



PS how could I forget? As we were leaving late Friday afternoon it was SNOWING!!!!!

Here we go again on our own

 

Hundreds of miles? Nope try about 16,000 kilometres. 
It was supposed to be an extravagance shared with my mum and dad, but unfortunately they were unable to join us.  So here we go and I really better keep the blog updated this time so I can share with them what they're missing. 

We flew via Singapore and Singapore Air. Really comfortable, even down the back of the (air)bus with attentive cabin crew who not only frequently offered food and drinks, but seemed to pop into the loos between every customer to freshen them.

I can highly recommend using the swimming pool in terminal 2 if you have a few hours to kill between flights, it was not only refreshing but we enjoyed a snack in the outdoor bar area and joined our second leg feeling ready for anything. Anything except the hell that is Lufthansa economy.



For a midnight flight you hope supper will come out swiftly. It didn't. But eventually we had a snack and tried to get some sleep. Full flight and seats so close together MY knees were hitting the seat in front. A little bit of turbulance but not too bad. Unfortunately the loos were neglected and smelly and cabin service rare. We did like the water bottles that were provided on each seat but they were pretty much the only amenity on offer! 12 hours (or was it 200) later once the seat belt signs were off they started breakfast service. I'd love to review it but I don't know what it was as we didn't get any. Yep the Captain told them to stop serving and get ready to land before they got to the peasants. 

Arrived in Munich on a cold morning tired and hungry and Matt was sad it was so early the beer and sausage van he's previously visited was still shut!

Bags duly dumped for the morning at the HBH (storage 3 for 6 hours) we set off for coffee and orientation then off for a walk to the Vikualienmarkt before our train trip onwards to Quedlinburg