North from Rome

Well I really had to use that title, didn’t I.  And I'm still binge reading Helen McInnes books - there seems to be one for every place we visit!

Fay and Bru, I know you’ll be pleased to hear Matt went to church last Sunday even if it was one run by "the other mob". 

OK, he visited a church.  

All right, he went there to try beer - but it was still a holy pilgrimage.   This was our final Trappist Monastery visit of this trip.  Unlike those in Belgium and the Netherlands, this one is in the middle of suburbia.  Alighting from the short metro ride we were unsure where to go but took the safe option “Follow those nuns!”. (It worked.)

The Abbey of Tre Fontaine (Three Fountains) is the site of one of Rome’s oldest churches and is supposed to be the site of the martyrdom of St Paul of Taurus (the Road to Damascus guy for those who didn’t pay attention in Sunday School).  According to the legend he came from Palestine to Rome and fell into conflict with the Jewish Christians – who believed that converts should follow Judaic practices such as circumcision.  Eventually his head was chopped off and bounced three times.  Where it struck the ground, springs appeared and became the three fountains in the abbey’s name.  The water was turned off in the 1960s as it was contaminated.    We didn’t go in to the main church as mass was being said, however, I did visit the church over the wells where there are some fine mosaics.

One of the three ex-fountains is behind the window.  I think.  My latin isn't that fluent.  Or effluent in this case I gather!

Mosiac floor in the church

Detail of another mosaic floor

The story of the three fountains

The beer and other monastic products were also interesting as they used eucalyptus in the production of many items (gum trees and cicadas were all around, just like in Lipari.  Or anywhere in Australia).  I skipped the gum-tree flavoured chocolate for the plain type, however, it was in the beer which gave it an unusual, yet refreshing, flavour; almost spicy like a ginger beer.  Why isn’t anyone brewing beer like this in Australia? (I’m sure there’s some out there somewhere.)

Naturally, being in Rome we had to revisit the Trevi Fountain.  It looked much better than it did on our last trip as the scaffolding has been removed and the marble has been cleaned of pollution stains.  Battling the other tourists for space we chucked our coins in to ensure another trip! 

When it was time to continue it was cheaper to fly to Lyon and take a train back to Carcassonne than to travel there directly by train.  Lyon was a delightful side trip.  Situated at the confluence of the Rhone and the Soane, it is a charming and interesting city which is as famous for its gastronomy as its museums and historical sites; we both thought it would be a very liveable place.   Friends suggested several different places they considered worth a visit and from the list we selected the archaeological museum.  Taking the funicular to the top of Fourviere Hill we first took in the view, then the crypt and cathedral, before walking over to the museum.   It houses an extensive collection of items which have been excavated from the adjoining sites including two theatres.  Lyon was an important Roman colony and the free audio guide provided information which wasn’t always included in the display labels. There was an animated display which provided an overview of the settlements from pre-history, the Roman era, and the early Christian times.  And I confess, when the commentary said “By this point Rome controlled all of Gaul” Matt and I looked at each other and chorused “Except for one small village!”.

I think the main thing I will take away from Lyon are a few extra kilos and a very high cholesterol level.  We ate and ate and ate.  Lunch in a restaurant recommended by our hotel (Daniel et Denise, located in the old part of the city) offered some traditional Lyonaisse cuisine.  Our waiter convinced me to try pike dumplings in a sauce of crayfish and it was delicious.  A light quenelle in a rich sauce with many tiny shellfish were perfectly accompanied by a “pot Lyonaisse” – the house wine served in a bottle of around 500ml.   

Hmmm...do they have their name embroidered on the napkins to deter or encourage souveniring?  Napkin scratchy, food lovely.

We also visited the market at La Halles de Lyon where we tasted cheeses and gorged on bone marrow, rich rillettes, tasty farmhouse pate, and charcutterie.  Another spot we’d like to return to!

I never have had enough marrow before.  Still haven't as SOMEONE decided he would share after all!

The cheese was worthy of instant admission to Nirvana!

 

We were very impressed with the way the French handle electric cars.  They have charging stations available on the street for them!  Something really needed in Australia before non fossil fuel vehicles really become a viable option.  Although in a nation stupidly in love with enormous four wheel drives I can't see these little ones ever being a hit.  Car or quad bike with lid?

The next city we stayed in was Carcassone.  It is renowned for its walled city – and it’s only a couple of hours from Lyon or to Barcelona on a high speed train.  Our first day was spent exploring the “new” part of the city.  We visited several churches and chapels and admired some of the marvellous stained glass windows.  We also took the time to visit the Musee de Beaux Arts (it was free) where we dutifully studied works with such cryptic names as Morte Nature and (loosely translated) Dead horse being devoured by wolves.  There was also an exhibition by a modern artist who really must have been starving in a garret as most of his works only used one colour of paint.  

I liked the stained glass much better than the tortured dead beasties.

We also managed to fit in more eating and Matt found a local beer to try.  I seem to have eaten my own bodyweight in duck confit so may have to stop teasing Matt about his marinated anchovy addiction.

The highlight of our visit, however, was of course the medieval walled city.  Another spot in which we could have spent a lot more time.  Within the walls are many interesting shops (and restaurants) and for a small fee you can visit three parts of the ramparts and the chateau museum.  High winds closed one part of the ramparts but we strolled the walls and admired the panoramic views of the Black Hills.  Such a fascinating visit as you can clearly see the fortifications and how they have been added to from the Roman period onwards.  Restorations have been ongoing since the mid 19^th century and it is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  There was a Russian quartette singing in the cathedral while we were there and the acoustics were astonishing. I think designers of modern concert halls could take a few lessons from the engineers of the 14^th Century. 

Carcassonne formed quite a contrast to the other walled cities we have visited this trip as it is inland – possibly the only thing that stopped Matt from buying this- no surf.

We met some lovely friendly people in Carcasonne too – one guide at the museum invited us to a gallery event, and while browsing the local comic shop, we were invited to an exhibition opening.  Sadly, we had to decline both invitations as we were off to Barcelona.