Saturday 16 December 2023

Eating our way around Singapore

After nearly a month in the snow the heat and humidity of Singapore was quite a shock! And, unlike most of the places we have been there isn't a great deal of free wi-fi. Still we had a vague idea of where we wanted to go from previous trips and had noted what buses we needed.




Lunch at the Tekka Centre was follwed by a bus ride to Dempsey Hill and a distillery tour and gin tasting at Tanglin Gin. We've done many a gin tasting over the years but can honestly say this was the most educational one yet.



We were greated by some friendly locals with welcome drinks of "moonshine" mixed with ginger syrup and soda water. Refreshing and tasty. We then joined our guide - an Aussie bloke from the Northern Beaches - who shared his knowledge and enthusiam as he showed us the distillery, explained how their modern still worked (quite different to the traditional ones but also more space efficient which is important in somewhere short on space), demonstrated the botanicals with sniff tests and a chat about what matched with with, and then guided us through a tasting. It was interesting to learn that spirit tasting should be done with no air in the mouth as this avoids that raw alcohol flavour and allows you to identify the different elements of each different sample.

We were fascinated to learn that Tanglin is the ONLY gin made in Singapore - that essential ingredient of the Singapore Sling. They do a modern and less sweet version of the cocktail, the Tanglin sling with Passionfruit instead of pineapple, as well as their own gin, triple orange liquer and bitters - I will have to return and give it whirl!




Our next stop, almost next door was (surprise!) a brewery! The Red Dot brewhouse was in a beautiful location and had elegant decor. A tasting flight was in order before the bus ride back to Geylang and dinner. Before Matt could look at every restaurant in a four block radius I made an executive decision that we were having things on sticks - Chuan - a northern Chinese style of skewers spiced with cumin, chilli flakes, a pinch of salt n pepper ans seasoned with sesame oil. 



Geylang was originally one of Singapore's oldest Malay districts and our first stop on our second day was a visit to the Geylang Serai, wetmarket, spices, food court, and upstairs, cheap clothes and rugs. We then continued on to the Malay Heritage Centre in Kampong Glam (once a sultan's palace, Istana Kampong Gelam), which unfortunately was closed for renovations. Passing the mosque we stopped for coffee at a fancy coffee shop as the faithful were being called for prayers. 

A wander through the fascinating Haji Lane provided ample window shopping opportunites, and for Matt, the most expensive craft beer of the trip (maybe this lesson is never buy fancy beer in a Muslim suburb?)





Heading out of town we proceeded to Newton Food Centre (as featured in Crazy Rich Asians) so I could try a Chicken Rice recommended by last night's bar staff.

 

We continued back to Little India for a walk around the streets and explored several of the shops. 

I did not know that Sinapore has Squirrels! 

Roosters and chooks everywhere!

Dwalli lights


the top of Sri Veeramakaliamma

Before we knew it, it was after 7pm so back we went Geylang where we queued for a table at the immensly popular Big Moustache restaurant for more Chuan. Staff were really helpful as we negotiated their booking system (only in Chinese) and menu (ditto but with pictures). Food was tasty, we may have overordered just a bit, but we actually prefered last night's restaurant.


Eggplant and garlic. Lots and lots of garlic

"sweat" chillis

chicken skins, chillis, chicken, beef, lamb.

but wait! There's more!

plus fish and prawns and mushrooms



Our last night in Singapore but we can't party hard to wind up our holiday as a seriously early start is planned for tomorrow with our taxi booked for 4:30am. 





From Switzerland to Singapore

 Why do so many journeys begin so early in the morning? It actually wasn't THAT early, but as it was still dark when we departed for the train it felt ealry. Still, unike their neighbour's, Swiss trains arrive on time and we even arrived with enough time to check our luggage AND have a glass of prosecco pre-flight.


Train views in the early morning fog


Airport cheers!

We were thrilled to realise when aboard that there was no one sitting with us, unfortunately a midday flight is not one where your body clock is ready to sleep all the way, even knowing the time difference at your destination.


We landed more or less on time and successfully negotiated the public transport system to find our hotel. Seem to have landed in the Red Light District (again) and I saw things in shop windows I didn't know were legal in Singapore!

The building over the road from us

A few extra dollars saw our room upgraded to delux (aka one with a fridge) and even better, one that was ready for us to check in so a power nap was next thing on the list before heading out for a late lunch.



Lakes, Lights, and Lugano

 We had planned spend the final morning in Lucerne by joining the optional excursion up the cable cars to as near as they get to the summit of Mount Pilatus this morning, however, it was not able to proceede due to strong winds. So instead a leasurly morning before the coach trip to Lugano. The views of the lakes and alps as we traversed the forest cantons were incredibly beautiful and I spent much of the morning swapping seats to try and get the best snaps of the views out the windows!



Lunch at "the services" (aka servo) as the driver had to take a mandatory rest break so an ice cream for me and a beer for Matt. Only another half hour or so of travel before dumping the bags to the hotel and farwelling Vasily, our driver. 


We set off for our final orientation walk with Aga, our lovely guide which looped round the lake and town and up to the cathedral and a final gluhwein at the markets.





Next to the Cathedral is the funincular mentioned in Drina Dances in Switzerland and we caught it down the hill.  Hmmm, maybe we should have caught it up and walked down instead to the way we did it!







We wandered the town a while including a brief stop at a local bar. For a wine or the conveniences? You decide.


The sun came out briefly! 

Rejoinng the group we set off for a sunset cruise on the lake and to see the lights. It was chilly but pretty - however, Aga made sure we kept warm with Jagermeister shots! 
 





Our final group dinner at was at our hotel for the night as we said goodbye to our companions of the road. The hotel was our nicest yet. Our room was huge and featured the red an gold velvet curtains I've always coveted.

finishing the trip with a bottle of bubbles seemed appropriate.

Really there was not enough time in Lugarno to get any feel for the place which was a pity. Switzerland's resorts were very popular as locations with writers of middlebrow fiction and Lugano is somewhere that I have read about in many mid 20th century works of girls fiction (mostly Mabel Esther Allan springs to mind) and thus somewhere that felt almost familiar and I would have liked more than just half a day here.

Packed and ready for an early start to commence the homeward leg.