Mostly Madrid.

Madrid doesn't have a cool theme song by Freddie Mercury the way Barcelona does.  Nor does it have a David Bowie exhibit or a beach.  But it is still a wonderful city and like everywhere we've been  in Spain the food was marvelous, the wine was pretty good and the local public transport was frequent, clean, and not over-crowded.

The train trip from Barcelona to Madrid was fantastic.  Incredibly fast speeds and our seats were in the carriage next to the restaurant and bar.   We had a pleasant afternoon watching the mountains speed by while enjoying a glass of rosé (me) or beer (Matt).  Madrid was forecast to be hot! hot! hot! but it only topped at around 36 degrees while we were there.  As we had an apartment with a decent kitchen it meant stocking up on magnum minis and tonic water.  We were lucky enough to find a bar very close by which was mostly patronised by local workers.   Their sangria was wonderful and Matt sweet talked the recipe out of the owner.  Ingredients included gin, brandy, red wine, prosecco (not cava), and sweet red vermouth.  

I had been very excited to read about the Temple of Debod and was looking forward to visiting it.  It is an Egyptian temple which was to be inundated by the Aswan Dam.  Instead it was taken apart and painstakingly rebuilt on a hill in a park in Madrid. It really is a spectacular location.  Unfortunately, we were unable to see the inside as it was closed for maintenance.  Why the people at the tourist office who gave us directions didn’t convey that important piece of information we shall never know…

The rest of our brief time in the Spanish capital was spent on mostly walking around.  It has a similar vibe to other modern big cities and is very easy to get around on the frequent and not overcrowded metro and buses.  Naturally we didn’t miss the local food markets – which were crowded  but full of great food both to eat there or take home. 

It was a bus onwards to our next stop too.  I had thought we were in for a 3 ½ hour bus trip from Madrid to Granada but apparently the bus timetable didn’t follow normal practice and use 24 hour time.  The trip was actually 5 ½ hours and arrived at 3:30pm.  Unlike other coaches we’ve caught it didn’t stop so the driver could have a coffee break, it was a direct service.  It wasn’t too bad with seat back screens offering movies, music, and limited internet browsing, but goodness we were peckish by the time we arrived!  Thank goodness for tapas.

All this for eight Euro

 

Barcelona!

The first thing I did on our way to Barcelona was play Barcelona! of course.  A great combination of two over-the-top musical forms.  It was only a short train ride from Carcasonne to Barcelona.

The first thing we saw in Barcelona after we emerged from the Metro was El Drac.

We were able to check into our hotel early.  It was one of those deals you sometimes get on Booking.com - and the hotel was so posh I refrained from washing clothes in the sink and drying them in the shower!  In the first area of Barcelona to be developed once the city extended beyond the medieval walls the hotel was in a listed building with a frescoed facade, although I confess I was really quite keen to try out the swimming pool.  A nice touch too I thought when the toiletries were in a little bag ready for you to take home.

After we settled in we went to the Design Hub where I had arranged to meet a friend, coincidentally in Barcelona at the same time as us.  We were supposed to be talking about her studies (she is doing a MA with a children's literature specialty just like I did) but kept getting sidetracked into other things!  We also visited the traveling David Bowie exhibition which recently opened.  Friday night is a great time to visit a popular show, it wasn't too busy at all (apparently the queues are usually long and the displays crowded.  Maybe the intended audience were all in Madrid at the gay pride festival?).  Three hours or so later we emerged.  And if it's 8pm in Spain, it must be time for tapas!

Every meal we've eaten in Spain so far has been tapas (I know we haven't been here long but when you're on a winning thing why change anything?).  I think I'd like to move to Barcelona - we also saw yum cha and sushi advertised.  And to his repertoire of anchovies Matt has added something which appears to be a plate of whole deep fried jalapenos.

The next being Sunday of course we went to church.  Again, the other mob were in charge and this time they were selling tickets.  Unfortunately they had sold out for both Sunday and Monday so we were not able to see the inside of La Sagrada Familia but only admire from the outside.  It really does look like a melted sandcastle in places!  I guess it will probably be the last major cathederal the world will see built so it was quite awe inspiring to see the work in progress.  I'm a fan.  We also saw the Gaudi houses just outside our closest metro stop.  The sense of playfulness you can see in these lesser works is still apparent in his masterpiece.

 A post lunch stroll took us the length of La Rambla and through the Gothic Quarter where we ended up at Monument a Colem.  Translated - the monument on a column.  Christopher Columbus (an Italian who sailed for the Spaniards) was celebrated with lions guarding the steps and people who were influential in his life supporting his statue.  Underneath was a tourist information centre and wine tasting!  When we were offered a trip to the top of the monument with our wine we couldn't say no to the birds eye view of the city.

We also took the time to wander through the maritime museum - even better because admission is free on Sunday afternoons.  The museum is in the old shipbuilding yards and is enormous.  A replica of the gargantuan royal ship barely filled a corner.  They also had a number of different types of smaller local vessels on display ranging from traditional fishing craft to speed racers.  Models from the former Naval Academies were also of interest.  

Sexy cozies from the 1920s

Matt tries to work out how to get into the model of the Ictineo I (a mid C19 submersible)

On our final morning we visited the food markets.  It was swarming with hungry people and I was only sorry I didn't have room in the esky for more food!  The only thing that stopped me stocking up on all sorts of spices was the thought that they would probably be confiscated by bio-security on return to Australia.

Returning to our hotel we collected our luggage and set out for the station.  Despite rolling strikes we didn't take too long to get there, however, getting through Sants was complex. Boarding a long distance train involved security similar to getting onto a plane.  Our tickets had to be produced and our baggage was x-rayed.  I'm not sure just how efficient the security checks were though as despite the signs insisting that knives, scissors and other things which could be used as weapons were banned our luggage passed the test.  Despite containing my multipurpose sharp knife used for cutting everything you might eat in a hotel room picnic and Matt's corkscrew complete with blade for cutting the foil on bottles.  The train reached speeds of over 300km/h and in just 2 1/2 hours we covered the 630 km and reached Madrid.

North from Rome

Well I really had to use that title, didn’t I.  And I'm still binge reading Helen McInnes books - there seems to be one for every place we visit!

Fay and Bru, I know you’ll be pleased to hear Matt went to church last Sunday even if it was one run by "the other mob". 

OK, he visited a church.  

All right, he went there to try beer - but it was still a holy pilgrimage.   This was our final Trappist Monastery visit of this trip.  Unlike those in Belgium and the Netherlands, this one is in the middle of suburbia.  Alighting from the short metro ride we were unsure where to go but took the safe option “Follow those nuns!”. (It worked.)

The Abbey of Tre Fontaine (Three Fountains) is the site of one of Rome’s oldest churches and is supposed to be the site of the martyrdom of St Paul of Taurus (the Road to Damascus guy for those who didn’t pay attention in Sunday School).  According to the legend he came from Palestine to Rome and fell into conflict with the Jewish Christians – who believed that converts should follow Judaic practices such as circumcision.  Eventually his head was chopped off and bounced three times.  Where it struck the ground, springs appeared and became the three fountains in the abbey’s name.  The water was turned off in the 1960s as it was contaminated.    We didn’t go in to the main church as mass was being said, however, I did visit the church over the wells where there are some fine mosaics.

One of the three ex-fountains is behind the window.  I think.  My latin isn't that fluent.  Or effluent in this case I gather!

Mosiac floor in the church

Detail of another mosaic floor

The story of the three fountains

The beer and other monastic products were also interesting as they used eucalyptus in the production of many items (gum trees and cicadas were all around, just like in Lipari.  Or anywhere in Australia).  I skipped the gum-tree flavoured chocolate for the plain type, however, it was in the beer which gave it an unusual, yet refreshing, flavour; almost spicy like a ginger beer.  Why isn’t anyone brewing beer like this in Australia? (I’m sure there’s some out there somewhere.)

Naturally, being in Rome we had to revisit the Trevi Fountain.  It looked much better than it did on our last trip as the scaffolding has been removed and the marble has been cleaned of pollution stains.  Battling the other tourists for space we chucked our coins in to ensure another trip! 

When it was time to continue it was cheaper to fly to Lyon and take a train back to Carcassonne than to travel there directly by train.  Lyon was a delightful side trip.  Situated at the confluence of the Rhone and the Soane, it is a charming and interesting city which is as famous for its gastronomy as its museums and historical sites; we both thought it would be a very liveable place.   Friends suggested several different places they considered worth a visit and from the list we selected the archaeological museum.  Taking the funicular to the top of Fourviere Hill we first took in the view, then the crypt and cathedral, before walking over to the museum.   It houses an extensive collection of items which have been excavated from the adjoining sites including two theatres.  Lyon was an important Roman colony and the free audio guide provided information which wasn’t always included in the display labels. There was an animated display which provided an overview of the settlements from pre-history, the Roman era, and the early Christian times.  And I confess, when the commentary said “By this point Rome controlled all of Gaul” Matt and I looked at each other and chorused “Except for one small village!”.

I think the main thing I will take away from Lyon are a few extra kilos and a very high cholesterol level.  We ate and ate and ate.  Lunch in a restaurant recommended by our hotel (Daniel et Denise, located in the old part of the city) offered some traditional Lyonaisse cuisine.  Our waiter convinced me to try pike dumplings in a sauce of crayfish and it was delicious.  A light quenelle in a rich sauce with many tiny shellfish were perfectly accompanied by a “pot Lyonaisse” – the house wine served in a bottle of around 500ml.   

Hmmm...do they have their name embroidered on the napkins to deter or encourage souveniring?  Napkin scratchy, food lovely.

We also visited the market at La Halles de Lyon where we tasted cheeses and gorged on bone marrow, rich rillettes, tasty farmhouse pate, and charcutterie.  Another spot we’d like to return to!

I never have had enough marrow before.  Still haven't as SOMEONE decided he would share after all!

The cheese was worthy of instant admission to Nirvana!

 

We were very impressed with the way the French handle electric cars.  They have charging stations available on the street for them!  Something really needed in Australia before non fossil fuel vehicles really become a viable option.  Although in a nation stupidly in love with enormous four wheel drives I can't see these little ones ever being a hit.  Car or quad bike with lid?

The next city we stayed in was Carcassone.  It is renowned for its walled city – and it’s only a couple of hours from Lyon or to Barcelona on a high speed train.  Our first day was spent exploring the “new” part of the city.  We visited several churches and chapels and admired some of the marvellous stained glass windows.  We also took the time to visit the Musee de Beaux Arts (it was free) where we dutifully studied works with such cryptic names as Morte Nature and (loosely translated) Dead horse being devoured by wolves.  There was also an exhibition by a modern artist who really must have been starving in a garret as most of his works only used one colour of paint.  

I liked the stained glass much better than the tortured dead beasties.

We also managed to fit in more eating and Matt found a local beer to try.  I seem to have eaten my own bodyweight in duck confit so may have to stop teasing Matt about his marinated anchovy addiction.

The highlight of our visit, however, was of course the medieval walled city.  Another spot in which we could have spent a lot more time.  Within the walls are many interesting shops (and restaurants) and for a small fee you can visit three parts of the ramparts and the chateau museum.  High winds closed one part of the ramparts but we strolled the walls and admired the panoramic views of the Black Hills.  Such a fascinating visit as you can clearly see the fortifications and how they have been added to from the Roman period onwards.  Restorations have been ongoing since the mid 19^th century and it is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  There was a Russian quartette singing in the cathedral while we were there and the acoustics were astonishing. I think designers of modern concert halls could take a few lessons from the engineers of the 14^th Century. 

Carcassonne formed quite a contrast to the other walled cities we have visited this trip as it is inland – possibly the only thing that stopped Matt from buying this- no surf.

We met some lovely friendly people in Carcasonne too – one guide at the museum invited us to a gallery event, and while browsing the local comic shop, we were invited to an exhibition opening.  Sadly, we had to decline both invitations as we were off to Barcelona.